Am I tired of Aldehydes? Detchema by Revillon has me wondering.

For years I have adored vintage fragrances, almost to the point of mania at times. The majority of my fragrance collection comprises aldehyde powerhouses, those delicious nose tingling additions to any scent which hel tp give it sparkle and shine. I like to think of aldehydes as the fragrance equivelant of bubbles in champagne. They add a certain something that can not be pin-pointed, yet they help to create the overall impression of elegance and polish.

Now that being said, I usually adore aldehydes and would prefer a healthy dose in my fragrances. But for some reason, lately I am just not enjoying the aldehydes as much as usual. I am actually seeking out my scents that are veering more towards the ambery and spicy; which is a strange thing to veer towards in scent during the warmer/hotter summer months.

I find myself reaching for scents I usually would wear during the cooler months; Youth Dew, Mitsouko, Opium, Noel au Balcon, etc… This is so out of character for me that I am actually wondering if I am going through any physiological changes that are causing this change in olfactory desires.

Yesterday I wore vintage Detchema by Revillon, a truly glorious scent in the classic Grand French Tradition of parfums. It is the older version, the one in the white box with pink and gold, not the 80’s version in the box that is red, black and gold, which tends to be a bit more fruity. I would normally have my nose firmly attached to my wrist from the moment I put this on until it started to dry down and wear after an hour or so. This time, I noticed that I avoided being to close to the scent immediately after applying it, but today I am still sniffing my wrist and crook ok my elbow and swooning over the BaseNotes that are still lingering.

While I always enjoy the way a scent wears and do enjoy the drydown and base notes, I find myself really not wanting to apply a scent yet today because the lingering notes are so delightful. I am being intoxicated by these sweet, soft, caramely, scotch-like notes.

Some of the notes in Detchema are; aldehydes, Peach, Neroli, Hyacinth, Bergamot, Ylang-Ylang, Jasmine, Carnation, Lily of the valley, Orris, Sandal, Vetiver, and Tonka. I am not too sure if this is the same for the original as the reformulated, but it sounds close to the version I own, which is the original.  

While I simply adore all the notes in this scent and could bathe in each note individually (usually), at the moment it is just the heavier notes that are drawing me in.  The orris, sandalwood, tonka and Vetiver are just moving me so much.

I guess if you are a lover of spicy scents or of floral scents, Detchema is a wonderful combination of both, but if you have patience, the base notes will be an especially worthwhile treat.

Maybe I am not truly done with my aldehydic fragrances, maybe I just need to see them more as just the ephemeral bubbles in the scent rather than the main component.


It has been quite a while now.

I just realized, this evening,  that it has been almost a year since I last posted anything.  Now,  do not think it is because I have run out of things/fragrances/topics to speak/write about.  No, that is never the case.  I just felt that there are so many blogs in the world, do I really need to share my thoughts also.  Well, yes, yes I do need to share my thoughts; thoughts especially pertaining to fragrance.

Even though there are myriad blogs devoted to beauty and many others devoted to fragrance, they are just sometimes a bit similar in content.  This is sometimes a good thing, but when dealing with vintage perfumes/fragrances there needs to be a different voice.  Do I consider my voice on the subject different, why yes I do.  One simple thing differentiates my musings on fragrance from those of others; fragrance is truly an intrinsic part of my life.  Many, many people love fragrances, the industry would not be a multi-billion dollar/euros force it is if people did not.  The thing is though, I did not learn about scent, nor did I discover it along the path of life.  I was pretty much “baptized” in scent from the time I was a baby.

Now I was never actually baptized in any literal sense of the word, but I was baptized with scent as a baby.  The scent in particular was Estée Lauder Youth Dew, it was also the bath oil; my mother alway had a bottle of Youth Dew bath oil on her vanity, along with many other fabulous “classic” scents.  When my mother would bathe me as a baby, I was told, she always noticed how warm and musky my skin-scent was.  One day she thought it would be luscious smelling, on my baby soft skin, if she added some Youth Dew to the bath water.  Lo and behold a parfumista was born.  Even though I was around an half year old, it was my fragrance birthing/awakening.  As mama has told me many times since, “I never knew that small splash of Youth Dew bath oil would create such a love/addiction of perfumes.”  But, addiction to fragrances it did start.

Now when I say addiction, I actually use the term closer in meaning to passion, yet passion is too tame a term for what I feel for fragrances.  In regards to fragrances, it was always the grand classics that made my heart sing.  The glorious ones my mama adored from the 40’s and 50’s were my first loves, along with many older ones she also adored.  We had Arpege de Lanvin, Je Reviens de Worth, Femme de Rochas, Chantilly de Houbigant (vintage of course) and so many others including one of her newer loves Mystere de Rochas; of course Mystere de Rochas is now a classic in its own right.

So this is the reason I have decided to resume writing about scent.  For me it is not just something I enjoy, for me fragrance/parfum is a defining part of who I am.  From those very first drops of Youth Dew, all the way up to the point of owning a 500+ bottle fragrance collection! to the present day.  I now maintain a well curated collection of scents numbering in the mid 200s; having realized I did not “love” all of the scents I owned, I parted with many so that others could find and enjoy a special fragrance the had loved.  Now I will focus on sharing my “musing” on my favorite scents, ones which I adore that others may not know about, or maybe are not as familiar with.  Then there are some which are written about, but I feel the scent in a much different way.

i do hope you will join me in this adventure and please feel free to share your fragrant thoughts and memories with me also.

Happy 4th of July

Today, being such an important day in US history, I thought I would be inspired.

I think we should look at fragrance outside the box, so to speak, so I am going to partake of a fragrant lovely from the men’s wardrobe-Signoricci.  Signoricci by Nina Ricci is not just a fabulous men’s fragrance, it is a fabulous scent in any situation.  It could be worn by a woman just as easily as by a man.  It opens with a fresh burst (like fireworks) of citrusy goodness; that would be courtesy of the requisite Bergamot and Lemon.  It then works its way into the deliciousness of a green-floral bouquet.  This smells neither like a classic feminine floral, nor a green masculine (with those harsh woody notes sometimes present).  This is a perfectly balanced bouquet, where the leaves and the flowers themselves are melded into a perfect harmony, although the carnation seems to be a bit more showy to my nose than some of the other floral notes; but then again this is marketed as a gentlemen’s fragrance, so the carnation adds a bit more solidity to it.     The fragrance then works its way into a lovely mossy, slightly woodsy dry-down.  I know the cedar-wood in this should give it a more prominent woodsy finish, but on me it tends to stay more close to the mossy, earthiness which one would expect from the vetiver which is also present.  Civet, tonka and labdunum are also present in this scent; but, I find those to just enhance the richness of the composition as a whole, rather than any one taking center-stage.

So, in celebrating Independence Day, I am making a break from the classic female fragrances and embracing those of the opposite gender, how revolutionary …n’est ce pas.

Why fragrance?

When one thinks of scent, one always thinks of perfume.  What about the scent of everyday life?  The scent of the outdoors? The scent of the foods we cook? The scent of our clothes; whether from the wash, the dryer, or the line?  Before perfume proper, there were just the perfumes of day to day life.  What are the scents that we encounter daily that inspire our favorite perfume choices?